Installing a New Shower Unit
An effective shower installation needs cautious preparation and a lot of work. For the most part, you will need to do 3 types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to pick the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is essential to establish whether the selected shower can managing specific systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are designed to be versatile to different water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is also important to take into consideration the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and very easy to install. Nevertheless, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily removed. Additionally, it is troublesome to change the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a really cheap option and no additional pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise struggle with bothersome temperature control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the cold and hot water products are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is a lot easier read this in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the previously discussed mixers. They also require extra pipes of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of convenient temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit including a powerful electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it disagrees for water heated straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats the water electrically. It is essential to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay untouched by other taps somewhere else in use within the household. A significant downside of electric showers is that the control knob just permits the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this issue is tackled in some designs which are available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head should either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.
Before starting, it is suggested to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. Furthermore, the drainage system to eliminate the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if an instant or electric shower unit is being installed.
Use the guideline guide offered with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they ought to be provided a waterproof covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the supply of water and test the pipes for any leaks, as some may require tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have actually been made (there must be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The don't forget to read this cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance below it-- possibly made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this alternative, the main and circulation pipes will also have to be raised to satisfy the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so as to maintain optimal pressure and reduce heat loss. Additionally, by reducing using elbows for pipe corners, you can reduce the resistance in the flow of the supply of water. You can achieve this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Violating or neglecting local code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipes that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall remains in place.
# Not effectively lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.